Tinjauan : Antielastase dari Berbagai Tumbuhan untuk Kosmetik
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.20527/jps.v12i2.21963Keywords:
Anti-Aging, Phytochemicals, IC50, Elastase Inhibitor, Bioactive CompoundsAbstract
Antielastase adalah senyawa yang menghambat aktivitas enzim elastase, yang berperan dalam mencegah kerusakan jaringan elastin di dalam tubuh. Tujuan review jurnal ini yaitu merangkum berbagai jenis senyawa bioaktif dari tumbuhan yang berkhasiat sebagai antielastase. Metode review yang digunakan mencakup berbagai pendekatan literatur yang dilakukan melalui tahapan pencarian artikel, seleksi, penentuan artikel, dan ekstraksi data. Proses pencarian artikel dilakukan pada database bereputasi seperti Google Scholar, OpenAlex, Pubmed, Sciendirect, Sinta, dan Scopus. Hasil dari 50 literatur menunjukkan bahwa semua tanaman yang diteliti mempunyai senyawa yang berpengaruh besar sebagai inhibitor enzim elastase alami dengan nilai IC50 kurang dari 50ppm. Senyawa dari tanaman tersebut yaitu golongan polifenol, flavonoid, α-tocopherol, biflavonoid, fenol, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), epicatechin gallate (ECG), antosianin, katekin, α-pinene, limonene, likopen, quercetin, dan safranal. Penelitian ini menunjukkan bahwa terdapat banyak literatur yang mendukung pemanfaatan tanaman sebagai agen antielastase. Kata Kunci: Anti-Aging, Fitokimia, IC50, Inhibitor Elastase, Senyawa Bioaktif Antielastase is a compound that inhibits the activity of the elastase enzyme, which plays a role in preventing damage to elastin tissue in the body. The purpose of this journal review is to summarize various types of bioactive compounds from plants that are efficacious as antielastase. The review method used includes various literature approaches carried out through the stages of article search, selection, article determination, and data extraction. The article search process was carried out on reputable databases such as Google Scholar, OpenAlex, Pubmed, Sciendirect, Sinta, and Scopus. The results of 50 literatures showed that all plants studied had compounds that had a major effect as natural elastase enzyme inhibitors with IC50 values of less than 50 ppm. The compounds from these plants are polyphenols, flavonoids, α-tocopherol, biflavonoids, phenols, Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG), Epicatechin Gallate (ECG), anthocyanins, catechins, α-pinene, limonene, lycopene, quercetin, and safranal. This study shows that there is a lot of literature supporting the use of plants as antielastase agents.References
Abdul Wahab, N. (2014). Assessment of Antioxidant Capacity, Anti-collagenase and Anti-elastase Assays of Malaysian Unfermented Cocoa Bean for Cosmetic Application. Natural Products Chemistry & Research, 2(3). https://doi.org/10.4172/2329-6836.1000132
Ahmad, Z., & Damayanti. (2018). Penuaan Kulit : Patofisiologi dan Manifestasi Klinis. Berkala Ilmu Kesehatan Kulit Dan Kelamin – Periodical of Dermatology and Venereology, 30(03), 208–215. http://download.garuda.ristekdikti.go.id/article.php?article=850430&val=7405&title=Penuaan Kulit: Patofisiologi dan Manifestasi Klinis
Ahmed, I. A., Mikail, M. A., Zamakshshari, N., & Abdullah, A. S. H. (2020). Natural anti-aging skincare: role and potential. Biogerontology, 21(3), 293–310. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10522-020-09865-z
Aji, A. P., Nurulita, N. A., & Diniatik. (2021). Uji Aktivitas Serum Ekstrak Terpurifikasi Daun Apuh-Apuhan (Azolla Microphylla) sebagai Antiaging. Prosiding SainTeKes, 2, 159–168. https://doi.org/10.37859/sainstekes.v2i0.2896
Amalia, T., Saputri, F. C., & Surini, S. (2019). Total phenolic contents, quercetin determination and anti elastase activity of Melastoma malabathricum L. Leaves extract from different method of extractions. Pharmacognosy Journal, 11(1), 124–128. https://doi.org/10.5530/pj.2019.1.21
Anggraini, N. B., Elya, B., & Iskandarsyah, I. (2021). Antielastase Activity of Macassar Kernels (Rhus javanica) Stem Extract and Skin Elasticity Evaluation of Its Topical Gel Formulation. Advances in Pharmacological and Pharmaceutical Sciences, 2021. https://doi.org/10.1155/2021/6690029
Arianti, V., & Elya, B. (2020). Artikel Asli Kandungan Anti-Elastase , Antioksidan , Total Fenolik dan Total Flavonoid Wuru Ketek ( Pohon cendanakembali . ex Bl .) dari Tangkuban Perahu , Jawa Barat - Indonesia. 12(2), 293–297.
Arulselvan, P., Fard, M. T., Tan, W. S., Gothai, S., Fakurazi, S., Norhaizan, M. E., & Kumar, S. S. (2016). Role of Antioxidants and Natural Products in Inflammation. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2016. https://doi.org/10.1155/2016/5276130
Bt Abdul Rauap, I. S., Sugiritama, I. W., Linawati, N. M., & Arijana, I. G. K. (2018). The effect of red-cabbage (Brassica oleracea L. var. capitata f. rubra) ethanolic extract in cream preparation on dermis-elastic fibre thickness in male Wistar rats after ultraviolet-B rays exposure. Intisari Sains Medis, 9(3), 127–130. https://doi.org/10.15562/ism.v9i3.286
Chaiyana, W., Charoensup, W., Sriyab, S., Punyoyai, C., & Neimkhum, W. (2021). Herbal Extracts as Potential Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, and Whitening Cosmeceutical Ingredients. Chemistry and Biodiversity, 18(7). https://doi.org/10.1002/cbdv.202100245
Chaudhary, M., Khan, A., & Gupta, M. (2019). Skin Ageing: Pathophysiology and Current Market Treatment Approaches. Current Aging Science, 13(1), 22–30. https://doi.org/10.2174/1567205016666190809161115
Damayanti. (2017). Penuaan Kulit dan Perawatan Kulit Dasar pada Usia Lanjut. Journal of Universitas Airlangga, 29(1), 73–80.
de Miranda, R. B., Weimer, P., & Rossi, R. C. (2021). Effects of hydrolyzed collagen supplementation on skin aging: a systematic review and meta-analysis. International Journal of Dermatology, 60(12), 1449–1461. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.15518
Denayu Pebrianti, Mikhael Ardi Kristiawan, Rima Hidayatul Qoiriyah, Siti Nur Kholisah, Aulia Hanin Fakhira, Laila Nur Azizah, Cindi Dia Rakhmawati, Muhammad Hilal Salim, Aviatus Solikhah, Rohana Ayu Pramesti, Rika Putri Septiawati, Melanny Ika Sulistyowati, & Muh. Agus Syamsur Rijal. (2023). Potential of Collagen as an Active Ingredient in Cosmetics. Berkala Ilmiah Kimia Farmasi, 10(2), 48–54. https://doi.org/10.20473/bikfar.v10i2.46518
Desmiaty, Y., Faizatun, F., Noviani, Y., Ratih, H., & Ambarwati, N. S. S. (2022). Review Article: Potential of Natural Products in Inhibiting Premature Skin Aging. International Journal of Applied Pharmaceutics, 14(Special Issue 3), 1–5. https://doi.org/10.22159/ijap.2022.v14s3.05
Ernawati, E. E. (2024). Standardisasi Ekstrak Buah Ceremai (Phyllanthus Acidus L. Skeels) dan Aktivitas Inhibisi Enzim Elastase. Jurnal Kartika Kimia, 6(2), 145–155. https://doi.org/10.26874/jkk.v6i2.225
Fraternale, D., Flamini, G., & Ascrizzi, R. (2019). In Vitro Anticollagenase and Antielastase Activities of Essential Oil of Helichrysum italicum subsp. italicum (Roth) G. Don. Journal of Medicinal Food, 22(10), 1041–1046. https://doi.org/10.1089/jmf.2019.0054
Henderson, A. H., Lister, I. N. E., Fachrial, E., & Girsang, E. (2020). Aktivitas Antioksidan dan Anti-Elastase Dari Ekstrak Etanol Tomat (Solanum lycopersicum L.). Buletin Penelitian Tanaman Rempah Dan Obat, 31(2), 67–74. https://doi.org/ 10.21082/bullittro.v31n2.2020.67-74
Henriksen, P. A. (2014). The potential of neutrophil elastase inhibitors as anti-inflammatory therapies. Current Opinion in Hematology, 21(1), 23–28. https://doi.org/10.1097/MOH.0000000000000001
Hering, A., Stefanowicz-Hajduk, J., Gucwa, M., Wielgomas, B., & Ochocka, J. R. (2023). Photoprotection and Antiaging Activity of Extracts from Honeybush (Cyclopia sp.)—In Vitro Wound Healing and Inhibition of the Skin Extracellular Matrix Enzymes: Tyrosinase, Collagenase, Elastase and Hyaluronidase. Pharmaceutics, 15(5). https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics15051542
Hidayah, L. A., & Anggarani, M. A. (2022). Determination of Total Phenolic, Total Flavonoid, and Antioxidant Activity of India Onion Extract. Indonesian Journal of Chemical Science, 11(2), 123–135. https://doi.org/10.15294/ijcs.v11i2.54610
Horng, C. T., Wu, H. C., Chiang, N. N., Lee, C. F., Huang, Y. S., Wang, H. Y., Yang, J. S., & Chen, F. A. (2017). Inhibitory effect of burdock leaves on elastaseand tyrosinase activity. Experimental and Therapeutic Medicine, 14(4), 3247–3252. https://doi.org/10.3892/etm.2017.4880
Jiratchayamaethasakul, C., Ding, Y., Hwang, O., Im, S. T., Jang, Y., Myung, S. W., Lee, J. M., Kim, H. S., Ko, S. C., & Lee, S. H. (2020). In vitro screening of elastase, collagenase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of 22 halophyte plant extracts for novel cosmeceuticals. Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences, 23. https://doi.org/10.1186/s41240-020-00149-8
Kalyana Sundaram, I., Sarangi, D. D., Sundararajan, V., George, S., & Sheik Mohideen, S. (2018). Poly herbal formulation with anti-elastase and anti-oxidant properties for skin anti-aging. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 18(1), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12906-018-2097-9
Khuanekkaphan, M., Noysang, C., & Khobjai, W. (2020). Anti-aging potential and phytochemicals of Centella asiatica, Nelumbo nucifera, and Hibiscus sabdariffa extracts. Journal of Advanced Pharmaceutical Technology and Research, 11(4), 174–178. https://doi.org/10.4103/japtr.JAPTR_79_20
Lan, C. C. E., Hung, Y. T., Fang, A. H., & Ching-Shuang, W. (2019). Effects of irradiance on UVA-induced skin aging. Journal of Dermatological Science, 94, 220–228. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdermsci.2019.03.005
Leal, C., Gouvinhas, I., Santos, R. A., Rosa, E., Silva, A. M., Saavedra, M. J., & Barros, A. I. R. N. A. (2020). Potential application of grape (Vitis vinifera L.) stem extracts in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries: Valorization of a by-product. Industrial Crops and Products, 154(March), 112675. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2020.112675
Lister, I. N. E., Amiruddin, H. L., Fachrial, E., & Girsang, E. (2021). Anti-Aging Effectiveness of Avocado Peel Extract Ointment (Persea americana Mill.) against Hydration, Collagen, and Elasticity Levels in Wistar Rat. Journal of Pharmaceutical Research International, 173–184. https://doi.org/10.9734/jpri/2021/v33i32b31760
Liyanaarachchi, G. D., Samarasekera, J. K. R. R., Mahanama, K. R. R., & Hemalal, K. D. P. (2018a). Tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, inhibitory and antioxidant activity of Sri Lankan medicinal plants for novel cosmeceuticals. Industrial Crops and Products, 111(August 2017), 597–605. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2017.11.019
Liyanaarachchi, G. D., Samarasekera, J. K. R. R., Mahanama, K. R. R., & Hemalal, K. D. P. (2018b). Tyrosinase, elastase, hyaluronidase, inhibitory and antioxidant activity of Sri Lankan medicinal plants for novel cosmeceuticals. Industrial Crops and Products, 111(November 2017), 597–605. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2017.11.019
Lukitaningsih, E., Nur, S., Qonithah, F., Zulbayu, A., Kuswahyuning, R., & Rumiyati. (2020). In Vitro Anti-Wrinkle and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activities of Grapefruit Peel and Strawberry Extracts. Majalah Obat Tradisional, 25(3), 182–189. https://doi.org/10.22146/mot.59194
Madan, K., & Nanda, S. (2018). In-vitro evaluation of antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, anti-hyaluronidase activities of safranal and determination of its sun protection factor in skin photoaging. Bioorganic Chemistry, 77, 159–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bioorg.2017.12.030
Mawarni, E., Novalinda Ginting, C., Chiuman, L., Girsang, E., Anisa, R., Handayani, S., & Widowati, W. (2020). Article History Antioxidant and Elastase Inhibitor Potential of Petals and Receptacle of Rose Flower (Rosa damascena). Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 7(2), 105–113. https://doi.org/10.7454/psr.v7i2.1016
Ms, P. G. C., Anti-kolagenase, A., Yunus, M. M., Ayoub, I. M., Mostafa, N. M., Hassab, M. A. El, Wagdy, M., Al, S. T., & Eldahshan, O. A. (2022). Anti-Tirosinase dan Anti-Hyaluronidase dari suatu Stenokarpus sinuatus Ekstrak Daun. 1–19.
Natanael, G. I., Simorangkir, G. F., Purba, N. P., Mardiana, P. B. T., Amansyah, A., & Nasution, A. N. (2021). Potensi Antioksidan dan Anti-Elastase Ekstrak Daun Kelor (MORINGA OLEIFERA) Terhadap Antiaging. Jurnal Keperawatan Priority, 4(1), 69–76. https://doi.org/10.34012/jukep.v4i1.1432
Ngo-Thi-Ngoc, H., Nguyen-Viet, B., & Hong-Thach, H. (2024). Purchase Intention for Vegan Cosmetics: Applying an Extended Theory of Planned Behavior Model. SAGE Open, 14(1), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.1177/21582440241240548
Nur Diyana, A., Koh, S. P., Aziz, N., Hamid, N. S. A., Abdullah, R., Puteh, F., & Sarah, S. (2021). Assessment of anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase and anti-acetylcholinesterase properties of fermented mango leaves at different maturity level. Sains Malaysiana, 50(9), 2675–2685. https://doi.org/10.17576/jsm-2021-5009-15
Nur, S., Aswad, M., Yulianty, R., Burhan, A., Khairi, N., Sami, F. J., & Nursamsiar. (2023). The antioxidant and anti-ageing activity of lyophilisate kersen (Muntingia calabura L) fruit in vitro. Food Research, 7(2), 23–30. https://doi.org/10.26656/fr.2017.7(2).749
Pientaweeratch, S., Panapisal, V., & Tansirikongkol, A. (2016). Antioxidant, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of Phyllanthus emblica, Manilkara zapota and silymarin: an in vitro comparative study for anti-aging applications. Pharmaceutical Biology, 54(9), 1865–1872. https://doi.org/10.3109/13880209.2015.1133658
Pintus, F., Floris, S., Fais, A., Era, B., Porcedda, C., Tuberoso, C. I. G., & Caddeo, C. (2022). Euphorbia characias Extract: Inhibition of Skin Aging-Related Enzymes and Nanoformulation. Plants, 11(14). https://doi.org/10.3390/plants11141849
Priani, S. E., & Fakih, T. M. (2021). Insights into Molecular Interaction of Flavonoid Compounds in Citrus Peel Bound to Collagenase and Elastase Enzymes: A Computational Study. Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, 8(2), 93–101. https://doi.org/10.7454/psr.v8i2.1202
Purbandini, N., … L. R.-J. A. J. I., & 2023, undefined. (2023). Jurnal Aisyah: Jurnal Ilmu Kesehatan. Researchgate.Net, 8(2), 581–590. https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Nastiti-Purbandini/publication/371826795_Nutritional_Supplementation_for_Pregnant_Women_to_Prevent_Stunting_Among_Children_A_Scoping_Review/links/64a77607c41fb852dd575de6/Nutritional-Supplementation-for-Pregnant-Women-
Radjah, S. Y., Putri, K. S. S., & Elya, B. (2021). Elastase inhibitory activity, determination of total polyphenol and determination of total flavonoids, and pharmacognosy study of faloak plant (sterculia quadrifida r.br) from east nusa tenggara-indonesia. Pharmacognosy Journal, 13(3), 758–764. https://doi.org/10.5530/pj.2021.13.97
Ramadhani, S., Elya, B., & Forestrania, R. C. (2023). Aktivitas Anti-elastase dan Antioksidan dari Ekstrak Etanol Kayu Bangkal (Nauclea subdita) Korth. Steud. dengan Variasi Metode Ekstraksi. Jurnal Mandala Pharmacon Indonesia, 9(2), 228–243. https://doi.org/10.35311/jmpi.v9i2.347
Sacan, O., Akev, N., & Yanardag, R. (2024). Inhibitory Effects of Aloe Vera Extracts on Anti-Tyrosinase, Anti-Collagenase and Anti-Elastase Potential. Bangladesh Journal of Botany, 53(3), 597–603. https://doi.org/10.3329/bjb.v53i3.76280
Shoko, T., Maharaj, V. J., Naidoo, D., Tselanyane, M., Nthambeleni, R., Khorombi, E., & Apostolides, Z. (2018). Anti-aging potential of extracts from Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich.) Hochst and its chemical profiling by UPLC-Q-TOF-MS. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine, 18(1), 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12906-018-2112-1
Sim, Y. Y., & Nyam, K. L. (2021). Tanaman dan Produk Industri Pemanfaatan ekstrak daun Hibiscus cannabinus L . ( kenaf ) sebagai agen pemutih kulit dan anti penuaan dini pada prototipe kosmetik alami. 167(1), 1–11.
Singh, H., Lily, M. K., & Dangwal, K. (2017). Viburnum mullaha D. DON fruit (Indian cranberry): A potential source of polyphenol with rich antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, and anti-tyrosinase activities. International Journal of Food Properties, 20(8), 1729–1739. https://doi.org/10.1080/10942912.2016.1217878
Sinurat, E. P., & Diningrat, D. S. (2023). Tinjauan Pustaka: Pemanfaatan Tanaman Berkhasiat Anti Aging (Anti Penuaan) Indonesia. Biofaal Journal, 4(2), 058–071. https://doi.org/10.30598/biofaal.v4i2pp058-071
Siska Anastasia, D., & Akib Yuswar, M. (2022). Review: Penggunaan vitamin C pada sediaan kosmetik. Jurnal Cerebellum, 8(3), 30–34. https://doi.org/10.26418/jc.v
Siti, N., Ambarwati, S., Desmiaty, Y., Noviani, Y., Valeria, B., & Triyani, Y. (2024). Serum Gel Formulation of Mundu Fruit Extract ( Garcinia dulcis Roxb . Kurz .) as Antioxidant and. 103–110. https://doi.org/10.25077/jsfk.11.2.103-110.2024
Stefanowicz-Hajduk, J., Nowak, A., Hering, A., Kucharski, Å., Graczyk, P., Kowalczyk, M., Sulikowski, T., & Muzykiewicz-SzymaÅ„ska, A. (2024). Antiaging Properties of Kalanchoe blossfeldiana Ethanol Extract—Ex Vivo and In Vitro Studies. Molecules, 29(23). https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules29235548
Stevenie, Girsang, E., Napiah Nasution, A., & Nyoman Ehrich Lister, I. (2019). Comparison Activities of Peel and Extract of Lime (Citrus amblycarpa) as Antioxidant and Antielastase. American Scientific Research Journal for Engineering, 57(1), 77–84. http://asrjetsjournal.org/
Sutanto, N. R., Yusharyahya, S. N., Nilasari, H., Legiawati, L., Astriningrum, R., & Fitri, E. M. (2023). Perkembangan Terkini Proses Penuaan Kulit. Jurnal Kedokteran Meditek, 29(1), 98–108. https://doi.org/10.36452/jkdoktmeditek.v29i1.2455
Swandiny GF, Desmiaty Y, & Rahmah HU. (2022). Antioxidant and Anti-aging Activities from Zodia (Evodia suaveolens J.R. Forst & G. Forst) Fruit and Leaf Extract. Jurnal Jamu Indonesia, 7(1), 20–24. https://doi.org/10.29244/jji.v7i1.169
Szewczyk, K., Pietrzak, W., Klimek, K., Miazga-Karska, M., Firlej, A., Flisiński, M., & Grzywa-Celińska, A. (2021). Flavonoid and phenolic acids content and in vitro study of the potential anti-aging properties of eutrema japonicum (Miq.) koidz cultivated in wasabi farm poland. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 22(12). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms22126219
Vera, K., Raif, A., & Ikhtiari, R. (2019). Antioxidant and Anti-elastase Activity of Seed and Peel Extract of P. edulis. American Scientific Research Journal for Engineering, Technology, and Sciences, 53(1), 43–48. http://asrjetsjournal.org/
Vijayakumar, R., Gani, S. S. A., & Mokhtar, N. F. (2017). Anti-elastase, anti-collagenase and antimicrobial activities of the underutilized red pitaya peel: An in vitro study for anti-aging applications. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical and Clinical Research, 10(8), 251–255. https://doi.org/10.22159/ajpcr.2017.v10i8.19048
Wanakhachornkrai, O., Banglao, W., Thongmee, A., & Sukplang, P. (2020). Determination of Antioxidant, Anti-Aging and Cytotoxicity Activity of the Essential Oils From Cinnamomum Zeylanicum. Journal of Microbiology, Biotechnology and Food Sciences, 10(3), 436–440. https://doi.org/10.15414/jmbfs.2020.10.3.436-440
Widowati, W., Tjokropranoto, R., Damayanti, C., Kusuma, H., Handayani, T., & Rizal, R. (2022). Potential of Black Tea (Camellia Sinensis (L.) O. Kuntze) Extract as Anti-oxidant and Skin Anti-aging. 65–73. https://doi.org/10.5220/0010744400003113
Younis, M. M., Ayoub, I. M., Mostafa, N. M., El Hassab, M. A., Eldehna, W. M., Al-Rashood, S. T., & Eldahshan, O. A. (2022). GC/MS Profiling, Anti-Collagenase, Anti-Elastase, Anti-Tyrosinase and Anti-Hyaluronidase Activities of a Stenocarpus sinuatus Leaves Extract. Plants, 11(7), 1–19. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants11070918
Yusharyahya, S. N. (2021). Mekanisme Penuaan Kulit sebagai Dasar Pencegahan dan Pengobatan Kulit Menua. EJournal Kedokteran Indonesia, 9(2), 150. https://doi.org/10.23886/ejki.9.49.150
Zofia, N. Å., Martyna, Z. D., Aleksandra, Z., & Tomasz, B. (2020). Comparison of the Antiaging and Protective Properties of Plants from the Apiaceae Family. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1155/2020/5307614
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

.jpg)
